Trip report: Akumal, February 8 to 15, 2007

Our eleventh trip to Akumal was every bit as wonderful as all of the rest. Our larger-than-normal group included Dale and Jule, Jule's sisters Barb and Sandy, and Kathy and me. The Sun Country flight was notable in that it was flawless: it left on time, arrived on time, and was pretty much turbulence-free. The Cancun airport was a little crowded with incoming flights, so we had a bit of wait time for the luggage, but still left the airport less than an hour after landing. Manuel from Avicar was waiting for us, as usual. This time, with a group of 6, there were two cars to deal with and we ended up going to an office off-airport to complete the paperwork. More on Avicar later.

After a quick stop at Covi in Playa del Carmen for supplies we reached "home" shortly after noon. La Buena Vida beckoned so it was off to lunch after a quick change into more appropriate (beach) clothing. Back at the Yool Caanal condos, we prepared for a lazy afternoon on the beach.

Half Moon Bay in front of Yool Caanal condos
Half Moon Bay in front of Yool Caanal condos

Living Room, Yool Caanal #2
Living Room, Yool Caanal #2

Dining and Kitchen, Yool Caanal #2
Dining and Kitchen, Yool Caanal #2

I walked down to Hacienda de las Tortugas and found Locogringa Jeanne and her hubby and we chatted a bit. Then it was back to the beach chairs to defrost the rest of the Wisconsin chill. We made our customary Lol Ha happy hour appearance and had supper there, and also talked with Jeanne and her husband some more, along with Sharoon and Steve. Since the day had actually begun somewhere around 2:30 AM we called it an early night.

Friday the 9th dawned beautifully, as did most of the days we were there. We breakfasted at the Lol Ha main restaurant and put in an appearance in front of the webcam.

Screen capture from Locogringo
Screen capture from Locogringo

We rented some beach chairs and prepared to spend the day on Akumal Bay. The prices for non-guests have increased to 40 pesos per day for the chairs…still worth the price. The snorkeling in the bay is still great. We saw a number of turtles of varying sizes along with the usual cast of thousands (it seems like) of other marine life. Between snorkeling jaunts we had lunch at the Lol Ha beach bar, where we returned for happy hour. Supper was at Pizzaria Leo's in Chemuyil. They were very busy, so might have to re-think going there on Friday or Saturday nights. I haven't mentioned all the new topes (speed bumps) that have appeared. They are huge and numerous, at Puerto Aventuras, Akumal, and Chemuyil. Fortunately they're now pretty well marked. The entrance to Akumal was in the process of undergoing change in preparation for the new 4-lane highway. At the start of the trip, we entered Akumal Playa pretty much as usual, from across the road. By the end of the trip that part of the entrance was being reconstructed and entry was a hundred meters or so to the north along the new pavement. It's still hard to figure out how the final configuration will look. It appears as though there will be curbing all along there between northbound and southbound lanes, so it will be impossible to enter the beach area from the north, but I'm sure that will change before it's all done.

We had breakfast at Turtle Bay on Saturday, then headed down to Tulum. The women toured the ruins while us guys hung out on the beach to the south. We walked down as far as El Paraiso and saw the beach beds for rent there. Looked like they'd be kind of hot, being covered with a light blue vinyl. The women met us after their tour and we went to Oscar y Lalo's on Punta Soliman for lunch.

Oscar y Lalo's
Oscar y Lalo's

Grouper, Veracruz style
Oscar y Lalo's Grouper, Veracruz style
After a lazy afternoon we just stuck around at the condos for happy hour and a meal of sandwiches and leftover pizza.

Sunday we had breakfast at Lol Ha and then returned to Half Moon Bay for snorkeling and sun. We lunched at La Cueva del Pescador and then just chilled until late afternoon when we headed north to Playa. By this time it had clouded up and begun to rain, off and on fairly heavily. We had a good dinner at Karen's then returned to the condos.

On Monday Dale and I went back to Turtle Bay for breakfast and then brought pastries back to the condos for the rest. It was still cloudy and a bit rainy at first, but then cleared and got windy. I dropped off a bunch of supplies at the library and had a little talk with Maggie there. She had just returned from a visit in the States. We spent the early afternoon at Puerto Aventuras, checking out the CEDAM museum and Gringo Dave's margaritas and food. I tried the beef kebobs, having pleasant memories of them at Tulum, but they just weren't the same. I think the Tulum location cooked things over a wood fire and the Puerto Aventuras location uses something else. They were okay, just not as good. The margaritas were very good, though.

At Gringo Dave's
At Gringo Dave's


We spent the rest of the afternoon on the beach at the condo then went to Lol ha for Happy Hour,
Happy Hour at Lol Ha
Happy Hour at Lol Ha


then into the main Lol Ha restaurant for dinner and the show. I have to recommend one of the grouper entrees: Grouper in Escabeche. The menu describes it as "Grouper marinated in a jalapeno, sweet pepper, onion and vinaigrette sauce, shredded and served on a tostada. Authentically Yucatecan!" Cost was 159 pesos. It was an amazing flavor combination. Following the dinner we retired to the condo and let some hermit crabs entertain us before bed.
Hermit crabs
Hermit crabs

The wind subsided somewhat on Tuesday morning and we were able to enjoy the Robinson Crusoe cruise arranged through the dive shop after breakfast at the Lol Ha. Actually now it seems that the arrangements for the cruise are made through TSA. As many have reported the cruise now goes to Chemuyil Bay rather than Xaak Bay, which was lost to the developers of the new Sirenis resort. No matter…Chemuyil is even more beautiful than Xaak was.

Chemuyil Bay fro the Kantaris
Chemuyil Bay from the Kantaris

The crew of the Kantaris prepared a wonderful lunch of mahi mahi, ceviche, and other condiments on tortillas, with pineapple for dessert. Tuesday evening there was a nice Locogringo get-together at La Buena Vida.
Some of the Locogringos at La Buena Vida
Some of the Locogringos at La Buena Vida

We began Valentines day with breakfast at the Lol Ha, then went to Yalku lagoon for some snorkeling. We managed to get there early enough to have some good snorkeling before the tour crowds arrived.

Yalku denizens
Yalku denizens

More Yalku fish
More Yalku fish


Then we spent the rest of the day at Half Moon Bay in front of the condo. We went to happy hour at Lol Ha again, where we saw some more locogringos: Jamiesgram and Gramps, and Tony and Joanne.
Our last happy hour of the trip
Enjoying our last Happy Hour for awhile


Then it was off to La Cueva del Pescador for dinner. We talked briefly with Carlos, the owner, and also with Maggie from the library, and also ran into some Wisconsin friends of our group who had just arrived that day for a stay at Aventuras Akumal. We went back to Lol Ha for dessert then returned to the condo for our last night.

We had an early flight (10:40 AM) out of Cancun on Thursday, but still managed time for a nice breakfast at Turtle Bay. When we met Manuel from Avicar at the airport we learned that Avicar was about to disappear, joining with another company, and this would be one of Manuel's last duties for them. This is a large disappointment to us, as our dealings with Avicar have always been so flawless. Hopefully the new company, or Manuel's new company, will be as good. Guess we'll find out in July! Check-in at the airport went very smoothly and quickly and the plane left right on time.

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