Akumal July 7 - 14, 2007


Our summer trip to Akumal started off well, with the Champion Air charter flight leaving early and also arriving a bit early. Sitting near the front of the plane allowed us to exit and get through Immigration about 20 minutes from the time the plane's wheels touched the ground. Of course there's never any chance of the baggage getting into the terminal so quickly, so we had a bit of a wait for that but Customs was a breeze. I looked for the familiar ATM near the exchange booth but it appears to have been moved to the new Terminal 3. At least we couldn't see it. No problem...lots of pesos left from last trip. It seems that the ATM wasn't the only thing at Terminal 3...our car rental pickup was also there. A quick phone call to the Caribbean rep soon righted the mistake and we were off to the office to finish up the paperwork and heading south in a high-milage Atos that looked almost brand new. The car ran flawlessly, though, for the entire week. Pretty much an uneventful drive south, with the new divided highway section complete to Akumal. We checked into bungalow 132, finding it to include a king bed and couch, the usual fridge and now a coffee pot too. Plus a telephone and high-speed data jack. We learned later that if we wanted to use the network connection, the charge would have been $5 per day. Since we don't bring a computer along, we'll likely never want it, but it's nice to know that they are available now. The afternoon continued with a walk on the beach. At Happy Hour we had a nice visit with Maggie from the Locogringo board then we had dinner at the beach bar.

Maggie and Craig at Happy Hour
Maggie and Craig at Happy Hour


After a short walk on the beach we headed off to bed.

Summer means smaller crowds, normally, and so the main Lol Ha restaurant is only open for the evening meal. However I'm not sure how long that will continue, since the beach seemed to be about as busy this summer as it usually is in March. At any rate, we had breakfast at the beach bar and then headed over to our usual palapa just south of the Akumal Dive Center and got set up for the day with beach chairs. Our first snorkel brought us over two turtles, a couple of rays, grouper, and other fish. We spent a very relaxing day under the palapa napping and reading and, of course, watching all the people on the beach. It seems that there are many more snorkel tours taking place now, both from shore and from visiting boats. Things get far too crowded quite early in the day and stay that way throughout the day.

Crowds in Akumal Bay
Typical crowds in the bay
We enjoyed lunch at the beach bar and of course Happy Hour, then went to La Buena Vida for supper. We saw the other Maggie (from the library) and talked with her for awhile and she introduced me to another ex-pat named "Red Beard". Maggie said that there were a lot of kids signed up for summer school at the library, including quite a few special needs kids.

On Monday we changed the routine slightly by having breakfast at Turtle Bay, but then went right back to the same palapa. During the day a film crew arrived and set up in the next palapa south of us. Later we learned that they were from a Travel Channel show called "Five Takes".

Scuba diver below while snorkeling
A diver, probably from the film crew, appeared below us while we snorkeled

We saw the full range of marine life during our snorkel, starting with a huge angel fish not far off shore, one large and three small turtles, several barracuda, the "fish ball," a nice grouper, and a ray, and of course all the smaller stuff.

Barracuda with companion fish and the 'fish ball'
Barracuda with companion fish and the "fish ball"


Grouper with the 'fish ball'
Grouper with the "fish ball" on the edge of the picture


The 'fish ball'
The "fish ball"

We brought a few bags of supplies over to the library and talked with Maggie and others. Around 11:30 the people in the Playa Fiesta '07 group started arriving. This year the group decided to have their gathering on Akumal Bay. We had a nice visit with Dan and Steph, Ellyn in St Louis, Tami and family, and the rest. After an appearance in front of the Locogringo web cam, about half the group went over to Lucy's and the other half went to the beach bar for lunch. There was a brief period when a storm moved onshore to the north of us and I got a picture of a waterspout.

Waterspout over north Akumal
Look carefully just right of center for the waterspout over North Akumal


Playa Fiesta '07 group
PF '07 group in front of Lol Ha

Many of the group left around 4 PM to get ready for a birthday party at the Barcelo. Kathy and I went to Pizzaria Leo's after happy hour, then came back to the bungalow and read until lights out.

Tuesday we breakfasted at Lol Ha and then headed out for a day inland. We had a snack at the Hacienda Sanchez at Valladolid, then headed north to the Ek Balam ruins.

Picture at Hacienda Snachez
Interesting picture hanging in Hacienda Sanchez restaurant


Kathy at Hacienda Snachez
Kathy at the Hacienda Sanchez restaurant

On the way there were some rain showers and there was a brief shower while at the ruins, which was the extent of rain for the entire week. Ek Balam is a very impressive site with some marvelous restoration. I climbed two of the structures, the "Twins" and Structure 1. The following were all taken at Ek Balam.

Stele near the Twins
Stele near the Twins


The Twins
The Twins


Structure 1 from the Twins
Structure 1 from the Twins


Structure 1 through doorway on the Twins
Structure 1 through doorway on the Twins


Stonework detail
Stonework detail


Unusual curved stonework
Unusual curved stonework


Well in front of Structure 1
Well in front of Structure 1


Detail partway up Structure 1
Detail partway up Structure 1


View from Structure 1, The Twins near the center
View from Structure 1, The Twins near the center


Detail farther up Structure 1
Detail farther up Structure 1


More Structure 1 detail
More Structure 1 detail


More Structure 1 detail
More Structure 1 detail


Curved wall
Curved wall

We had a late lunch back in Valladolid at the Maison del Marques then back to Akumal with brief stops at Coba and Tulum.

Fountain in Maison del Marques courtyard
Fountain in Maison del Marques courtyard


Iglesia San Gervasio in Valladolid
Iglesia San Gervasio in Valladolid


Valladolid Zocalo (plaza)
Valladolid Zocalo (plaza)

After Happy Hour we had dinner at La Cueva del Pescador. I happened to look up at the pathway between La Cueva and Turtle Bay to see a family walking through. The father looked familiar and it took about a second before I realized that it was Jamie Hyneman from Mythbusters, a program on the Discovery Channel. I had heard several times that Jamie often comes to Akumal, but was really surprised to actually see him. After dinner we walked on the beach and sat down on some beach chairs on the north side of the beach bar for awhile. Then we picked up some Snickers cones at Super Chomak and headed back to the bungalow.

The next day was another clear, sunny one, but maybe a bit more windy. We breakfasted at Turtle Bay then claimed our palapa for the entire day. For lunch we picked up pollo asado from Hafez and Hamid, in the pueblo and brought it back to the palapa. After Happy Hour we went to the main Lol Ha restaurant for dinner...ahhhh, Grouper en Escabeche! And a brownie dessert.

Grouper en Escabeche
Sorry about the "soft focus", but here is the Grouper en Escabeche

We sat on beach chairs again for awhile then called it a day.

Thursday was again hot, sunny, and windy. Lol Ha was our breakfast choice again, and the same beach palapa beckoned afterwards. I shot some video while snorkeling, seeing much more of the same marine life as has been around all week. Back in the palapa we were bugged (literally) by some tabanos, also known as devil flies. We both received several bites and decided to head out. Apart from some localized itching, I had no real trouble with the bites, but Kathy reacted quite a bit. It seems that's often the case with tabanos. Jen at Turtle Bay recommended some creme that her husband Bart uses called Andator. She had some at the bakery and let Kathy use it. Another person recommended that she remove her wedding rings, which was a good call. A little later and it wouldn't have been possible to get them off. We went south to Nacho's for lunch. The food was good, but the prices were still pretty high. Then we went back north, stopping briefly at the DIF beach, which previously has always been fenced off. Now it's right in the middle of the Bahia Pincipe resort complex and the fence is gone. There is a turtle nursery in the area, too. We kept heading north to Playa, where we picked up some Andator and also some Don Julio tequila to bring home, then came back to Akumal. After Happy Hour we went back up the hill into the pueblo. We had planned on having dinner at Ultimo Maya restaurante, but they were closed when we got there. We'll try again another day. We came back down the hill and ate at La Buena Vida, where we had some of the worst service I've ever experienced anywhere in Akumal. I'm not sure what was up...there certainly weren't a lot of customers keeping the waiters busy.

Kathy at La Buena Vida
Kathy at La Buena Vida

After dinner we decided just to go back to the bungalow.

Our last full day started with breakfast at the Lol Ha, then we had beach time for the rest of the day. We chose a different palapa and didn't have any return visits from the tabanos. I snorkeled solo and saw an eagle ray almost immediately in about 4 feet of water. Then I managed to see and photograph a lot of the same things...barracuda, grouper, the fish ball, and of course turtles. We had lunch at the Ultimo Maya. Good food and reasonable prices. We were hoping for Yucatecan dishes, but that's not on the menu any more. When we were at the Chedraui store in Playa we got a gift card as part of a store promotion, so I dropped that off with Maggie at the library. I figured they could use it more than I could. During Happy Hour we sat with some Locogringos: "Rudi to Go" from Alberta, Texan "Captain Randy" (a new LG), and another Texas couple who book through Locogringo but haven't been active on the message forum.

Locogringos at Happy Hour
Locogringos at Happy Hour

Rudi to Go is in the center with Captain Randy next to him, and Craig is on the far right. Later we had dinner at Turtle Bay - great as usual - and then turned in early.

For a change we had plenty of time on our last morning to have a leisurely breakfast at Lol Ha. Something new...they had a buffet breakfast. I would have preferred to order from the menu, but that wasn't an option. We walked on the beach for a bit then packed up and checked out. We had more than enough time for the trip north, and swung through Puerto Morelos on the way. Caribbean met us at the terminal and we returned the car without a problem, then checked in at the Champion counter, had lunch at the Jose Cuervo restaurant, then said goodbye to the Yucatan until next time. The flight home was uneventful and completely on time.

I've found a place to post the three short, low quality videos I got on one of our snorkeling excursions into Akumal Bay. You can find them here:
Barracuda and fishball
Turtle and Barracuda
Turtle including surfacing for air