Corsets or stays are fully boned. They slightly reduce the waist (0” - 3”) and flatten the bust creating a conical torso. The bottom front dips low, while the sides and back are cut at the natural waistline. Corsets are cut low in front and high under the arms creating a very upright posture. They can have shoulder straps or be strapless, though it was more common to have straps than not. Optional tabs at the waist provide support for heavy skirts and make the garment more comfortable to wear (my personal preference).

The Wheel or Drum farthingale (above) is a cylindrical construction made from metal banding or reed radiating out from the waist and falling to the floor.

The Bumroll is a stuffed pad that is full in the back and tapers to points the front, it ties around the waist and can be worn to support a wheel or by itself to add volume to a skirt.  Skirts must be specially made to go over farthingales, or they "ride high-water."

The Spanish farthingale came first and exited last, it’s a conical gored skirt with hoop supports and a draw-string waist.

Reed hoops are lightweight and moderately flexible. Metal banding is heavier but very flexible and more durable. All hoops are removable for laundering.

Ladies waistcoats are quilted for warmth and worn over the stays, but under the bodice. They button in the front.

Bodices were standard outerwear tops. They changed quickly through the 1600’s. High necklines, low necklines, rounded or square. Long tight sleeves, short loose sleeves, virago sleeves (see 2^nd illustration for stomachers), wings, etc. Low waistlines, high waistline, basques, stomachers… Pick a painting and go with it!

This is a separate decorative face for your bodice or corset. Stomachers dip very low in front and stick out from the belly. Eventually the bottom tab dipped so low that it became a defining characteristic in women’s fashion. They were known as “spoon” or “duck bills” and were slightly rounded at the bottom. This style was worn from the 1590’s to the 1670’s.

Petticoats were worn under skirts and gowns to add extra volume or warmth and to soften the lines of a farthingale.

Skirts could be closed like petticoats, or open to show the skirt underneath (above). Both skirts could be left plain or decorated with embroidery and trim.

Ruffs were very fashionable at the beginning of the century, but soon gave way to lace collars. Women wore ruffs much longer than men. Ruffs were starched and sometimes wired to maintain their shape, or were supported by an underpropper.

Long hoes are worn under slops and tied to the waistband. Short hoes are worn under or over breaches and tied at the knee with a garter.

Full hose or slops were common until about mid-century when they gave way to breaches. They are very full and made from pleated panels.  They are lined for warmth and stability.  Slops are worn with hoes to complete the pant leg.

The doublet buttons down the front and at the cuffs. It often had wings on the shoulders to hide the sleeve attachments and had short skirts or tabs on the bottom. Sleeves can be fitted or full. Doublets can have slashes, embroidery, and trim. Breaches are tied to the doublet with ribbons through eyelets at the waistband.

The term “breeches” replaced hoes by 1630, they are joined at the center seam like modern pants. Breeches usually end just below the knee and have varying degrees of fullness depending on the region and year.  Make sure your stockings are long enough that you don't flash knee when sitting or riding.

Embroidered linen jackets with ribbon ties were very popular in the first decade of the 17^th century. They were worn with lace cuffs and collars. Sleeves were usually sewn on rather than tied on. Waistcoats came into fashion in the 1660’s and were cut at waist level much like modern vests.

Gowns, or “nightgowns” were technically worn during the day for added warmth and formal occasions. They are made from luxurious fabrics like velvet, satin and fur. They can have long, loose sleeves, short open sleeves or be sleeveless.

Jerkins are usually made from leather and worn open over doublets or belted at the waist with a silk or satin sash.  Jerkins are sleeveless, have high waists and long skirts. Soldiers commonly wore them.

Short capes were worn over other garments for formal dress occasions or as protection from the elements. They could have be sleeveless or have split panels and a shoulder cape that buttoned into a jacket.  This second style is known as a casaque.  Think 3 Musketeers.