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Grasshopper Control

There are over 1,000 species of grasshoppers occurring in the US alone. Worldwide the numbers go over 23,000! They take on many different colors and sizes, but it is the unmistakable physical appearance of grasshoppers that is consistent. It is characteristic that some will fly and some will jump.

What is the difference between grasshoppers and locusts? Grasshoppers that migrate have been given the classification of locust. Grasshoppers and locusts are of the family Locustidae. However "true" locusts will emigrate when they have multiplied to the point that they must move on to an area that is capable of sustaining their feeding needs. This behavior in not consistent nor does it run in cycles like grasshoppers. This why we hear of swarms of locusts infesting an area. Crickets and katydids are of the locust family. Katydids are mostly green in coloring and also identified by their piercing "song" katy-did-katy-didn't. We see from all this that the name grasshopper is a catch all phrase for this group of insects. Locusts emigrate by leaving one area to settle down in another with no predictability. Grasshoppers, locusts, cicada, what have you...they are all extremely destructive.

Grasshopper infestations vary in their intensity from year to year. Generally speaking seasons that have large populations will occur for two to four years simultaneously. After this cycle a period of low infestation will happen for three to four years. The cycles often repeat in this manner, with the adult lifespan being approximately 60 to 90 days. Grasshoppers usually begin to hatch in mid spring. The warmer the spring the earlier hatching will occur. Often times a late spring freeze will disrupt the cycle, killing the young hoppers.

There are three stages of development: the egg, nymph (young adult) and the adult hopper. The nymph stage goes through five instars (development stages.) As they finish each instar they molt and become bigger. It is in the first to third week of adulthood that the female hoppers will begin to lay eggs. They lay them in the soil covering them with a foamy like liquid which forms a hard, protective shell enabling them to withstand severe cold. It is the during the nymph stage of hoppers that you want to take control action.
Even in periods of low populations grasshoppers can cause considerable damage in home gardens. The main damage that hoppers inflict on plants are the consumption of foliage. During periods of overpopulation they can and will go after shrubs and trees, just about anything. Following are some methods to help you control grasshopper outbreaks.

Predators
-Blister beetle and ground beetle larvae attack the egg pods of grasshoppers. They are both capable of consuming between 50 to 60% of grasshopper egg pods.
-Snakes, toads, cats and skunks feast on hoppers.
-Bird predators include bluebirds, brown thrashers, crows, hawks, mockingbirds, meadowlarks and sparrows.
-Horse-hair worm, a large nematode up to several inches in length parasitizes and kills hoppers.
-Robber flies and spiders will feed on grasshoppers.
-Field mice and many types of rodents will dig up and eat the egg pods. They also feed on the adults. -Chickens, ducks and Guinea hens are prolific consumers of hoppers.
-Preying mantis love to eat grasshoppers!
-Fish: One of our visitors reminded us how fish love to dine on hoppers! He goes on to add that live hoppers make excellent fish bait and that the bigger the hopper the bigger the fish you can catch. Bass are extremely fond of them.

Barriers
-Plant the herb horehound (Marrubium vulgare) which is known to repel grasshoppers.
-Plant calendula as a barrier deterrent.
Garlic Oil Spray
-To make: Combine 3 ounces of minced garlic cloves with 1 ounce of mineral oil. Let soak for 24 hours or longer. Strain. Next mix 1 teaspoon of fish emulsion with 16 ounces of water. Add 1 tablespoon of castille soap to this. Now slowly combine the fish emulsion water with the garlic oil. Kept in a sealed glass container this mixture will stay viable for several months. To use: Mix 2 tablespoons of garlic oil with 1 pint of water and spray. (Other non-insecticide pest repellents and killers are available on our home brewed pest remedies page.)

Nosema locustae is a one celled parasite that infects and kills the hoppers when they ingest it. A single treatment can last for several years. Hoppers being of a cannibalistic nature will eat the dead parasite infected bodies. This sets in force a chain reaction passing the parasite from generation to generation. Certain species of hoppers may expire within several hours after treatment whereas others may take 4-6 weeks to be affected. It is generally sold already mixed with branmeal or you can mix it with branmeal yourself to entice the hoppers. Apply Nosema locustae as soon as hoppers begin to hatch. You definitely want to treat by the time they hit the third or fourth instar stage. It has little effect past these stages and on adults. Apply at a rate of 1-2 pounds per acre. You can make a second application after 4 weeks.

Traps & Sprays
Sink glass jars into the soil. Fill to the halfway point wit a mixture of 10 parts water to 1 part of molasses. The hoppers are drawn to the sweet smell of the molasses, they dive in and drown. Clean traps as needed.
Try a caffeine spray. Brew coffee 5 to 10 times stronger. Cool and spray as is.
Try a pepper spray using jalapenos, habaneros or any HOT pepper to repel the adults. Include some castille soap in with this.
Spray insecticidal soap mixed with beneficial nematodes directly on grasshoppers in the evening.

Diatomaceous earth
applied as a dust can be an effective control. DE has razor sharp edges that penetrate the hoppers exoskeleton, dehydrating them and killing them. The same effect is had internally as they will also eat DE. Be sure to wear a mask when working with DE, you do not want to inhale it! A word on Diatomaceous earth: 30 million years ago, silica shells of one-celled algae (diatoms) built up on the ocean bottoms forming deep deposits called diatomite. These fossilized shells are mined and milled they produce the razor sharp shards of silica, a desiccant. DE looks and feels like talcum powder; but to an insect it is a lethal dust that scratches and absorbs the wax coating on the insects' surface, leaving it to die from dehydration. DE will eventually kill any insect that is exposed to it and will kill earthworms. DE does not break down in the environment, so it remains effective until it is washed away or turned into the soil. It is non-toxic to mammals, but will irritate the mucous membranes! DE has a high mineral content and will add these minerals to the soil, improving it.

Black Strap Molasses: combine 4 ounces of this with one quart of water. Spray directly on hoppers. This will clog their pores so they cannot breath resulting in their death.

Neem Oil

A controversial topic among organic gardeners: neem oil is not to be dismissed lightly. Made from the seed of the Neem (azadirachta indica) tree, a shade tree native to India. The active compound azadractin is extracted using water, alcohol or petroleum ether. Neem has been used for centuries in India to protect stored grains. Neem does have a tremendous potential as a broad spectrum pesticide with a systemic action of several weeks. Neem has many different effects on insects. It acts as an insect antifeedant and repellant. It can stop or disrupt insect growth (IGR = insect growth regulator) and sterilizes some species. Also of interest Neem has now been classified as an ovicide, mildewcide and miticide. It has now been approved for use on food crops.

Neem Oil Disadvantages
-It is an oil and should not be used in direct sunlight. -It can burn tender foliage and the oil can separate from the spray water in high humid conditions also causing foliage damage. -Flowers can be spotted also by the spray.