My thoughts and experiences
as a baby boomer
Creative Solutions
Dictionary of Sewing Terms
Sewing Information
G
GATHERING
Gathering enables a longer piece of fabric to be sewn onto a shorter piece of fabric. It is also a method used to ease a seam, allowing the insertion of sleeves and other rounded pieces of a pattern. It creates fullness by pulling fabric together.
GIVE
This term is used to describe the elasticity of a fabric or garment eg. this garment has a lot of "give" (ie it has a lot of stretch).
GRADING (SEAMS)
This is the action of trimming raw edges of a fabric (in graduating widths) to reduce the bulk of a curved edge. eg a facing seam allowance would be trimmed shorter on the facing part of the allowance and longer on the body seam allowance.
GRAIN
The direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage.
GUSSET
A piece of fabric that is sewn into a seamline in order to create decoration or fullness, for example, inserting a diamond shaped section of material to an underarm area of a dress allows more movement.
H
HAM
This is a useful item for ironing curved areas of a garment for eg. sleeves darts etc. It is "ham" shaped, tightly stuffed, and appropriately shaped to mold to curves.
HAND
The way that a fabric feels when it is touched. Various terms can be used like silky, soft, dry, and crisp. For example "this fabric has a very soft hand."
HEM
The area of fabric that is turned up and stitched on the lower section of a garment, allowing a clean finished edge. Hemming can be performed to shorten pants that are too long or alternatively the hem can be lowered to allow more room for growth in childrens clothing.
HONG KONG FINISH
Where bias binding has been enclosed within a seam.
HOOK AND EYE CLOSURE
This is a method employed to "close" sections of fabric using a metal hook on one side and a loop on the other. This is often seen in the construction of lingerie and also at the upper rear of some dresses and blouses.
I
INSEAM
The seam that runs along the inside leg of pants, from the crotch to the hem.
INTERFACING
This fabric is inserted between layers of the garment to give stability and form to collars, cuffs, and some waistbands. It can be sewn in, or alternatively, it can be fusible (iron-on adhesive).
INTERLINING
A soft fabric that is placed between the lining and the face fabric to help insulate.
INVERTED PLEAT
A flat pleat with the extra fabric to the wrong side.
IRON
An iron is an essential part of your sewing kit. It is used to press and straighten fabric with or without the use of steam.
IRONING
Ironing is the action of moving an iron back and forth over a garment to smooth out the wrinkles and creases. Also see "Pressing" which is the more common term used in the construction of a garment.
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