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Creative Solutions
Dictionary of Sewing Terms
Sewing Information
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OVERCAST/OVERSTITCH
This form of stitching is done to prevent a seam from ravelling.
OVERLOCK
Another word used for serging. This is an overcast stitch that is used to prevent the fabric from ravelling. You can buy an overlock machine that will cut and overlock in one step.
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PATTERN LAYOUT
These are directions for the way you should lay out a pattern.
PATTERN REPEAT
The amount that one pattern is duplicated down the length of the fabric. Pattern repeat is one full pattern.
PATTERN WEIGHT
These weights are used on paper patterns to hold the pattern down to the fabric. These are used instead of pinning the pattern to the fabric.
PILE
This word is used to describe the nap of the fabric. Corduroy and velvet are examples of fabric in which the pile needs to be laid in the natural direction when being cut for a pattern. The fabric appears a different color when brushed in one direction.
PINKING SHEARS
These are a type of shear with a "vvvvv" shape along the cutting edge. Using these shears instead of normal straight edged fabric shears will lessen the fabric ravelling. They can also be used for a decorative effect.
PINS
Pins are used for holding paper patterns to fabric whilst you are cutting the fabric, and also to hold fabrics together whilst being stitched. Safety pins can be used to baste quilt layers together before the the final quilting. Make sure you use good quality sharp pins to avoid large holes being left in your fabric.
PINTUCK
Pintucks give a decorative, tailored appearance to a garment, often blouses. They are narrow, sewn rows of fabric that give a raised look to a garment.
PIPING
This is the method whereby woven or twisted rope is inserted to act as a drawstring in hooded jackets, waistbands etc.
PIPING CORD
A fabric covered cord that is inserted into an item to decorate or accentuate a seam.
PIVOT
Pivotting is the action of leaving the sewing machine needle in the fabric, raising the presserfoot, turning the fabric on a 45 degree angle, lowering the presserfoot and continuing to sew. This ensures the fabric stays put when you turn corners.
PLACKET
A v-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve. Before the cuff is attached it is finished with a bias strip.
PLEAT
A fabric fold that is only sewn at the top edge on a garment such as a skirt or slacks. The fold is formed outwards or inverted.
PRE-SHRINKING (also referred to as pre-washing)
This term refers to laundering the fabric before you mark and cut out your pattern, so that the fabric shrinks to its ultimate size and shape before you work with it. Pre-shrinking really only needs to be done with a fabric that is going to be worn and washed ie not necessary for a craft project that is not going to be laundered. Do not pre-shrink 'dryclean only' fabric.
PRESS
Pressing is different to ironing. Pressing is the action of using a hot iron in a press/pick up/move/press/pick up/move action. Do not use a back and forth motion as you would when you "iron". Pressing is usually done in the creation of a garment.
PRESSER FOOT
The presser foot is the part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric as it is being fed through the feed dogs. You can buy various types of presser feet to do specialized tasks such as buttonholing, zig zagging, cording, zipper insertion and blind hemming.
PRICK STITCH
Prick stitching is used on fabrics such as velvet.
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